Duncan Heather from MyPhotoSchool has the tips you need to make sure your next zoo visit is a success.
We often return from a trip to the zoo with disappointing results. Be careful not to be too hard on yourself. You’re working with moving animals, and the lighting will never be perfect.
It’s also challenging to create images that convey a sense of wildness within a captive environment. It’s not about trying to make your pictures look like they were taken in the wilderness but about placing your subject within a natural-looking environment.
If you want to sharpen your photography skills before a day at the zoo, then read on.
Plan your trip carefully to ensure that you have a great time. If there is a zoo website, study the map and the species list in advance and decide which animals you want to photograph.
There are many species in zoos to choose from, and it can be tempting to shoot as many as possible in one day. However, you’ll get better results if you focus on just a few favourite animals.
It’s important to consider whether your photographic strategy is to go to the zoo to take photos or to spend a family day, hoping to sneak away and snap a few shots. The latter may be more realistic, but your chances of success are much greater with the first.
Plan your trip to avoid crowds, and exclude weekends, holidays, and bank holidays.
It pays to arrive early when the place is quieter. You’re more likely to get enclosures to yourself. If it is sunny, the light will be warmer and softer.
Overcast skies aren’t all bad. They are a good thing. The clouds will diffuse the light, eliminating harsh shadows.
A decent telephoto lens is essential for zoo photos. For small animals or shy animals, you’ll want a lens that can zoom up to 400mm or 500mm.
Even if you have an image stabiliser, a monopod or tripod will help reduce camera shake. You should also pack a wide-angle or macro lens to capture those candid shots and quirky portraits.
Although not necessary, an external flashgun with a diffuser attached and a cord dedicated to use off-camera will give you more options when the weather is bright or dull.
This is also perfect for lighting dark exhibits. For best results, hold the flashgun 45 degrees away from the glass.
Many animals are more active in the morning, late afternoon and during feeding time.
If keeper talks are offered, they provide some of the best opportunities for close-ups. It’s also worth asking about special events and features. Many wildlife parks, for example, offer safari drives that are extra-cost and will take you to areas not normally open to the public.
Choose the Raw and slowest ISO you can, but always be ready to increase the ISO when the light level drops.
Use a telephoto, set the aperture wide, and move as close as you can to the wire to make it blurry. To avoid glare, wait for the animal’s return to the cage and then shoot through the shaded wire section.
Rubber lens hoods are inexpensive and available for most filter thread sizes. Turn off the flash or use a separate unit off the camera and search for an area of glass that is clean and unscratched.
To eliminate any reflections, clean the glass and then press the front of your lens hood against it.
Check for distracting artificial objects in the background. Even large outdoor enclosures that replicate animals’ natural habitats contain one or more artificial obstacles, such as feeding stations, playframes or manicured grass.
To avoid clutter, change your position or angle of shooting. You can also use a wider aperture and a longer focal distance to blur the clutter. Close-ups can be used to eliminate the background. Headshots are a good choice, but you could also try abstract studies or a longer focal length.
Patterns are everywhere! Think patterns! Try using an ultra-wide or fisheye lens if you are able to get close enough, preferably with tame creatures.
Try to express the emotions and personality of each animal.
Shoot at eye level for more intimate portraits. Wait until your subject makes direct eye contact and then focus on their eyes or the nearest eye if they are at an angle.
If you want to capture facial expressions and behaviour, set your drive mode for continuous high-speed shooting. Watching animal behaviour can help you anticipate the right moment to press the shutter. While you wait, use a monopod or tripod to relieve your arms of the strain.
Try using slower shutter speeds in fading light to blur the subject’s movement. You can even use a flash burst to create a ghostly image of your subject on top of the blur.
If it’s hard to create compositions that look wild, why not photograph the animals in their natural environment? Images that show what it is like to be a captive can be very powerful. How about monkeys with fingers coiled around wire fences as an example? Convert your mono shots into a documentary style when you return home.
You’ll enjoy your day at the zoo no matter what you do. You may become addicted and a frequent visitor.
